Reviews
Workshops
The Pele of rock climbing - the workshop revolutionised the way I now think and move on rock - Johnny took movement and ideas back to their essential components and made us re-evaluate everything that we ever learned. Imaginative and brilliant fun, the workshop was as memorable as any day on rock could ever be.
Rinaldo Colombi
Well known for his dynamic style of climbing, Johnny mixed the physical and the philosophical, teaching ways to dyno from sloper holds and perform running jumps onto the wall. As Johnny himself says, the only thing that limits your climbing is your own imagination.
Review of Dublin Workshop from Crag News, Winter 2001.
A note to say thanks to Johnny for the most bonkers day of the year so far.
Steven Bond, Mansfield
[Compton Verney] I thought the day was great - the boulder, house, gardens, people, art and activities were superb. It had the feel of The Prisoner or the Avengers or similar 60s series - everyone brainwashed to be chilled out and happy.
Ben Shaw
Thanks - Really enjoyed the workshop in Dublin on Saturday...Really psyched to go to Spain next week and try to get the grade up into the 7's
Ricky J Young, Belfast.
Just thought I would drop you a line to say thanks. I had a great workshop, it took a week or so to sink in but I have definitely noticed an improvement in my climbing.
Duncan Eagles
CENTRE OF GRAVITY. My 12 year son and I both did this course recently. I've been climbing for less than a year (grade 4c) my son has been climbing 3 years (6b). So a dramatic difference. Johhny's approach made it both enjoyable and relevant to all ages, levels and experience. It really did make a difference and we both learnt a lot. He also made us think more about balance and climbing. At the beginning he set us tasks few could do but within a short time we were all doing it. I'd recommend the course to anyone. An enthusiastic, inspirational and illuminating teacher.
Chris (& Tom) Arnold, London.
As a teacher and coach myself, I can see that Johnny has a great talent for passing on his skills. Combine this with his broad and fascinating experiences of climbing and even one class with Johnny is a valuable and special experience.
Mark Alderson, Dane Court Outdoor Centre
See photos and review
It was good getting a new way of thinking about climbing and how to imagine individual moves. Just seeing how you mentally prepared for some moves was interesting in itself, made me start to understand a little of what you meant about frequency etc. It's still all sinking in to my brain but it feels like I have had a shift of perspective, opened up a few horizons and made me think that more things are possible.
Nick Lambourn, Oxford.
I would just like to say thanks to Johnny for the two workshops I attended at The Climb in Amersham. I had great fun, and they have also helped a lot, I can do things I never thought I would be able to do and I think all that I learnt I will be able to put into practise to improve my climbing further. Thanks again
Jamie Prutton
I feel like I have seen a little more into the art of climbing and realised that there is a great deal more to see.
Richard Holt
I am sure it has improved not only my climbing standard, but has also broadened my perspective and my concept of what is possible.
David Guyler
Thanks for a great workshop at Leeds on 26 Feb. I had a lot of fun and managed several problems that I wouldn't even have looked at previously, never mind succeeded on. It's difficult to quantify everything I've learnt (it's still sinking in), but all the techniques were new to me and useful - I spent a lot of time going "aha...." as the light dawned and I realised we weren't just learning 'techniques' in the traditional sense of the word; it was more a case of changing the way you think about what your body can do and what it should be doing. This is tricky to put into words, but I reckon I've got the idea. Probably the most useful benefit was the fact that I got all fired up again, something I haven't always been able to do at a climbing wall lately.
Tony Naylor
Thanks a million for a brilliant afternoon! Climbing went from my one true escape (next to riding racehorses) into something I took way too seriously. You've really got me enthused about climbing again, after almost a year of 'Blah!' and lolling around on the bouldering mats. I managed to take all the fun out of it, and you've put it back! I really got my money's worth, and I'm looking forward enthusiastically to getting back to the Warehouse to perfect those moves in time for your next workshop! Excellent! I will be booked on your next nearby workshop for sure!
Lindy
....once you start thinking about the right movements for each problem the moves turn from impossible to not all that hard.
Review of the latest OUMC Workshop by Adrian Baugh
See full review
I took part in a workshop with John Dawes at the Edge climbing centre for an afternoon. During this time John taught us many new techniques for moving about on rock that I have been able to apply to my climbing to improve my grade considerably. As a group we were shown a new technique, i.e. that of 'momentary footholds' and then tried various boulder problems at the wall with which we could apply this idea. One of the most useful new ideas for me was how to use the rest of your body to climb with rather than just your hands and feet. I noticed a marked improvement in the difficulty of problems I completed as a result of moving my hips around to better help the move I was trying to do. I have got a lot from the one course and I can now have a crack at F7a routes where I was climbing only F6a before!
Ben (20) Sheffield
Having attended two workshops with Johnny I know that the best skill I have learned is the ability to visualise a difficult move then complete it. I now think before, during and after each climb about the moves needed. In the past I always thought of climbing as a challenge I now view it as a skill that needs to be mastered. I no longer think of moves as impossible - I just need to learn and practise the skills needed. At the workshop at Froggatt I was able to climb grades (6a) previously not even considered. Johnny takes a hands-on approach to his workshops. He has a friendly and welcoming attitude that immediately puts you at ease. You never feel left out due to lack of ability as Johnny finds a variety of problems to suit all grades. A friend described my climbing as "inspired" after a recent workshop.
Nick Currie, Reading Mountaineering Club
- 'Elephant' (aka Maureen), Melbourne, 50 year old, 2 years experience: top standard 7b red-point wrote excitedly 1 month later to tell Johnny she had done a 7c.
- VS climber Matt from Guildford (approx 30 yrs old) after 1 hour's practice on "no-hands problems" managed to climb Sunset Slab direct (VS 4b) at Froggatt without his hands: a two-limb improvement!
- Rob, Guildford (approx 40 yrs old) used to climbing S 4a. During the course of a 3 hour "Felt Sense" Workshop, managed to improve to 6a.
Comments about a lecture for Ape Index
Went to see the Ape Index lecture in Sheffield on Sunday. All round it was hilarious, with Johnny coming across as a right nutter (strangely enough)......... The one-handed solo ascent of Downhill Racer is the most amazing thing you will ever see - makes you realise how far ahead he really is...
Well there was a fair feeling of groupieness in the room really, between the giggly girls ("you're soooo strong johnny!"), and the The North Face stamped wannabes, it was quite a sight. JD obviously could not be arsed making a proper show, so just talked a lot of bollocks commenting a few old and less old slides. Anyway, for those who wanted to see some climbing pictures it was bobbins. If you were happy listening to the guy sarcastically and cynically talking a lot of cobblers it was very funny.
UK Climbing's ROCKTALK
Johnny was a disgrace, and too drunk to string sentences together. Its not that I am against getting drunk, but over 100 people had given up time and money to gain an incite into his climbing past, epics and future aspirations. Instead, they were given slurred gibberish, worn out references to donkeys dicks, and offensive jokes.
Paul via email
....we were treated to a recital of one of the greatest pieces of climbing writing ever, as far as I am concerned. The Dawes' article, Not Necessarily About the Indian Face was written in the raw aftermath of his completion of the country's first E9, and is in turn inspirational, thrilling, chilling, and fatally desperate.
Niall Grimes
